The most exciting ferry crossing in Scotland

by - 11:22 on 08 September 2008

The most dramatic sea voyage in Scotland must be Scrabster, near Thurso, to Stromness in Orkney. I’ve done it a few times now but still it suckers me in to stand on deck and watch those awesome cliffs slide by on the starboard side.



The famous Old Man of Hoy, the capital letter at the beginning of the dramatic statement that is Orkney, (ooh, get him, with his implausible metaphors) seems to detach itself from the red cliffs as you sail past it. Come to think of it, that’s a silly thing to write as well. After all, it is already detached, otherwise it wouldn’t be a sea-stack.

Then it gradually shrinks when compared to the sheer scale of the cliffs of St John’s Head a little further to the north. Wonder why it was called that? Was John an apostle famous for his large head?


And just when you think Orkney is going to be all awesome cliffs and verticalities, everything changes, with a serious turn to starboard into Hoy Sound. Suddenly, to the north, it’s green, with contained fields and grazing flocks – and even a golf course.


The boat turns north again and Stromness appears, scattered along the shore, and not looking Scottish at all. What I mean is, it looks Scandinavian. This is also a problematical statement, as I’ve never been to Norway. I don’t know what’s wrong with me today.
But it’s still the most entertaining 90 minutes sail anywhere in Scotland. Tricky to photograph in places though, as the light is against you in the morning with the cliffs east of the boat, while Hoy is south when seen from Mainland Orkney. You’ll get better pics of the ‘Old Man’ in an afternoon or summer evening return sailing.

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