The Colour of Eriskay
by - 14:55 on 09 June 2007
Scrolling through my photos on screen, I always know when I come to the Eriskay ones. It’s that unmistakable Hebridean blue jumping out. Now, Scotland is a colourful place: the vibrant greens of Argyll’s woods by the sea-lochs; Grampian heather moors in August when the heather is in bloom; the weird silvery flat light of the far north as it glints off the quartz strewn slopes – and so on, and on, till autumn sends us into adjectival overload.
Anyway, choose your moment to visit the Uists, Eriskay and Barra. Sunshine would be best. That’s what we got for several days last June. The south end of the Western Isles or Outer Hebrides (I can never remember which they prefer) is one of those parts of Scotland sometimes perceived as remote and difficult to get to. But it’s no big deal. Just drive on to a ferry at Uig on Skye or Oban. Or you could fly and land on the beach at Barra.
Why should you go? Well, Eriskay is totally charming for a start – a complete Hebridean experience in a small package. Climb to the highest point and you can see all round the island and away south to Barra (local ferry connection). And from Eriskay it’s the simplest thing to tootle back along the causeway to explore the Uists.
If you enjoy wildlife watching then one of the most endearing characteristics of the area is that sightings, comment-worthy in other parts of Scotland, are positively everyday here. After a while you give up mentioning the corncrakes, for example. In fact, you just want them to stop that infernal, scratchy creaking from just outside the garden fence. (We went self catering.) Short-eared owls? Hen harriers? I’m sure I saw one almost collide with a crofter’s washing line as it sailed past a row of shirts and socks. Otters? Not another otter. Just stroll quietly around the tidelines and you can’t miss ‘em. Actually, it’s totally brilliant. Loch Druidibeg, for instance, has a real air of wilderness about it. I mean, a truly wild place.
And if the south-westerlies bring an, uhmm, moist airflow off the Atlantic? (Oh, how we copywriters find it hard to write ‘rain’.) Easy, you hole up with some fine coffee at Hebridean Jewellery, Iochdar on South Uist. It does proper coffee and is something of a surprise sitting out in the open, green, loch and sea-interlaced western edge. It’s all very tasteful. Finally, the other unusual refreshment highlight was the astounding smoked salmon and home-baked bread served casually, as a sideline, by the Hebridean Toffee Company in Castlebay on Barra. No, I don’t know why a fudge-maker would have such good sandwiches either, but they did. Yes, it’s different out in the far west. Can’t wait to go back.
Add your comment
