Berwick-upon-Tweed - can we borrow it please?

by - 14:12 on 24 June 2007

Yes, we are prepared to be controversial here, though only a little bit. It’s about Berwick-upon-Tweed. One of my favourite towns. It’s just the right size and it wears its history plain to see in the shape of its well-preserved fortifications.

Wander through the town and its shops and you can browse for books, musical instruments, heaps of wholefoods and other ethically sourced stuff, and also haggle over a set of spanners at the street market. (Really, everything that a chap could want.) And I know at least one cheery wee place that does decent coffee. In addition, the museum of the King’s Own Scottish Borderers in the handsome barracks is fascinating. There’s plenty of beach for dog walking, handsome bridges that add to the ambience, plus good communications. There’s only one little hitch here for mentioning it on a site about Scotland. It isn’t actually in Scotland.

It has been in the past. In these warring border-lands, it changed hands several times, finally becoming part of England in 1482. Central to its story is its strategic location on the border. Today, the old county of Berwickshire is in Scotland. Its football team plays in Scotland. But you seldom see it in Scottish guides, at least, not much after Murray’s Handbook for Scotland, 1894 edition. In tourism terms, the Tartan Curtain descended and promotional activity was defined by administrative borders rather than what made a logical day’s touring for the visitor. (A topic which turns up from time to time on this website.)

Anyway, it makes a great day out, no matter which side of the border you are based. If anyone cares to send in an Extra Mile from Berwick, I’d be happy to use it.

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